First, the Basics

“Tricks are like puzzles for dogs; teaching your dog new tricks not only challenges his mind, but enhances his focus and intelligence,” explains Kyra Sundance, California-based stunt dog show performer and trainer and New York Times bestselling author of 101 Dog Tricks. “The process of challenging your dog to achieve a goal — and then working toward that goal together — is a bonding experience for both of you.”

But whether you want to teach Rover to retrieve your newspaper from the end of the driveway — or to simply come when called — there are definitely some tricks to the trade. “Try to follow the mantra: ‘cue, action, reward’… and remember that timing is everything, because that reward must be given at the exact moment your dog delivers the action you’re looking for,” explains Chrissy Joy, a trainer at BFF Pet Services in Maryland whose dog, Beasley, is the 2018 National Stunt Dog Champion.

Along with keeping training sessions short and minimizing distractions as much as possible, Joy notes that your four-legged friend is going to need a ton of positive reinforcement during the learning process. That means plenty of verbal praise (“good girl!”), head scratches and, of course, yummy treats.

“One of the most common mistakes people make is trying to use dog kibble or being too stingy with treats, but in the learning phase, you want to use the good stuff — chicken, cheese, ham — or anything your dog would really enjoy will keep him motivated to learn,” Sundance adds.

Want to know how to teach a dog tricks? Here are some fun tricks to teach your dog at home:

Teach a Dog to Spin in a Circle

According to Joy, a dog’s drive to hunt makes spinning in circles a trick that any dog can learn. “You can use your dog’s natural inclination to rely on his nose to find prey into luring him to move in all sorts of ways,” she explains.

1. Let your dog sniff out a treat in your hand.
2. Move your arm in a wide circle around the dog as you give the cue, “spin.”
3. Encourage your dog to follow his nose to spin in a circle, and reward him with the treat.
4. Once your dog understands this trick, graduate to only using the word “spin” or making a circular hand or arm gesture to elicit the behavior. (You can also teach a follow-up command like “rewind” or “reverse” and train your dog to spin in the opposite direction.)

Teach a Dog to Crawl Through a Tunnel

Don’t worry, you don’t actually need a tunnel for this trick — a row of chairs works just fine. “It’s a really fun trick but also a great canine conditioning exercise,” Sundance says.

1. Use a treat to lure your dog to get down on his belly and crawl under a chair (it should look like army crawling), then reward.
2. Add an additional chair and repeat the first step.
3. Keep adding chairs and gradually move the treat farther away from the end of the row of chairs so your dog learns to crawl completely through the “tunnel” to earn his treat.

Teach a Dog to Shake Hands (or High-Five)

Is there anything more adorable than a handshake (or a high-five) from your best pal? This trick requires that your dog already knows “sit”.

1. Ask your dog to “sit”.
2. Gently tickle the back of her leg until she lifts her paw, while using commands like “give paw” or “shake.”
3. Reach for her paw and reward with a treat for completing the handshake. The same steps can be applied for a “high-five” command; hide a treat in your fist and try to get your dog to paw at your hand while using the “give a high-five” cue, eventually opening up your fist and rewarding your dog for pawing your open palm.

Teach a Dog to Roll Over

When your dog can follow the cue for “down,” you can advance to the “roll over” command. Just try to keep your hands off your pooch when teaching this one. “We instinctively want to teach our dogs by physically manipulating them, but when a dog gives up his initiative, it actually slows down the learning process,” Sundance explains. “Instead, always use treats, toys or other rewards to lure your dog into the correct body positions on his own.”

1. Put your dog in the “down” position.
2. Using a treat, guide your dog’s nose over his shoulder to encourage him to displace his weight to seek out the treat, while giving the cue “roll over.”
3. Continue the motion until his body fully rolls over, then give the reward.

Teach a Dog to Act Shy

“One of Beasley’s more unique and entertaining tricks is acting shy by covering his eyes … it’s definitely a crowd-pleaser,” Joy says.

1. Place a small piece of masking tape on your dog’s nose.
2. Most dogs will immediately attempt to bat off the tape with their paw; as the dog brings her paw to her nose, use a cue like “good shy” and reward the behavior.
3. Repeat until your dog understands the command without using tape and will react to the word “shy” (such as “Don’t be shy”).

Teach a Dog to Retrieve a Drink From the Refrigerator

While this is definitely a more advanced trick, the use of an especially tasty treat and a lot of patience and repetition can make it happen. Your dog should already know the commands for “fetch” and “drop,” and you may want to first use those commands to teach your dog to play fetch with an empty can of soda.

1. Tie a dish towel on the handle of the refrigerator door with a knot at the end (Sundance notes it’s best to leave the door open slightly when first introducing this trick to your dog). Introduce your chosen cue, like “bring me a soda.”
2. Insert a piece of hot dog or another delectable treat into the knot at the end so the dog is attracted to the towel and learns to pull on it to retrieve his treat. Repeat command and reward with praise and additional treats for pulling on the towel and opening the door.
3. Use the command for “fetch” while pointing to the soda can. If needed, place the can in the dog’s mouth while using the cue, and reward with a treat.
4. Use the “drop” command to encourage your dog to place the drink into your hand. Reward this action with treats and praise. Continue moving farther away from the refrigerator while giving these commands.
5. To teach the dog to close the refrigerator door, dangle a treat in a position that will prompt your dog to get on his hind legs and place his front paws on the door, while using a command like “close it.”

Source: https://www.dogster.com/dog-training/how-to-teach-a-dog-tricks-step-by-step-guides?utm_source=WhatCountsEmail&utm_medium=Dogster%20Full%20List+All%20Subscribers&utm_campaign=DED20180619

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Causes of Tear Staining:

Tear staining is most obvious in light colored dogs and occurs most often in toy breeds. The staining is often brown in color, but sometimes takes on a pinkish hue as well. This condition is caused by an overflow of a dog’s natural tears onto the fur. The reason that tears end up on the fur can vary.

• In breeds with bulging eyes, the eyelid may stretch in such a way that makes it impossible for the tears to reach the point where they normally enter the duct in the eyelid and flow down to the nose.
• In other dogs the ducts can be blocked (which can sometimes be corrected surgically).
• Some dogs have excessive tearing issues. The hair surrounding their eyes acts almost like a wick, drawing the excess moisture out. The constant wetness around their eyes harbors bacteria and creates staining. This can actually cause a type of yeast infection (known as “Red Yeast”) under your dog’s eyes.
• Allergies can cause tear staining and staining around the mouth as well.
• Yeast infections within the ears can also cause an increase in tear staining.

How To Improve This Condition:

Many top breeders of toy dogs who suffer from this issue say that watching what your dog takes in is key to controlling tear stains. Here are a few tips that may improve this condition in your dog:

• Tap water often contains a large amount of minerals that can contribute to eye and face staining. Using purified or bottled water may help with these issues over time.
• Feed only high quality diets (and treats) with no fillers (corn, soy, wheat) or artificial colors. These are often allergens and can contribute to reactions in your dog.
• If you were using plastic food and water bowls, switch over to stainless steel. Plastic feeding dishes are often an overlooked cause for allergic reactions in dogs.
• Some breeders suggest giving a small dog ½ of a Tums (250 mg) twice a day. This will change the PH balance of your dog’s tears, thus making it a less friendly environment for bacteria and yeast to thrive.

What About Topical Tear Stain Removal Products?

While there are a number of tear stain removal products on the market right now, the consensus is that these are mostly a waste of money. They generally do not work and putting anything harsh near your dog’s eyes is obviously *not* a good idea!

Ask Your Vet:

In extreme cases your vet may recommend putting your dog on a course of Tetracycline, an antibiotic. While this can be effective in treating the tear stains, it also can have side effects including gastrointestinal upset and staining of the teeth. If you notice your dog shaking his head or scratching his ears, he may have a yeast infection that is furthering the tear staining. In this case, Otomax or Gentamician is often prescribed in the form of drops.

In Conclusion: 

Fighting tear stains can be a frustrating battle. Taking the steps above can often help improve this unsightly condition, but it may take a bit of time before you see a noticeable change in your dog’s appearance.

Source: http://www.dogguide.net/tear-staining.php

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Source: http://pugdemonium.blogspot.ca/2015/10/beanie-baby-dog-costume.html

Source: http://www.hgtv.com/design/make-and-celebrate/handmade/15-diy-pet-costumes-for-halloween-pictures?soc=hgtvcom53804806&adbid=10153405423089213&adbpl=fb&adbpr=16801589212

Source: http://stories.barkpost.com/beggin-halloween-costumes/?utm_content=buffer13979&utm_medium=social&utm_source=pinterest.com&utm_campaign=buffer

Source: http://www.buycostumes.com/ideas/spider-dog-costume/

Source: https://www.buzzfeed.com/amazonclouddrive/boooo?utm_term=.vyal3Gk7Z#.uxXv68qyr

Source: https://www.homesalive.ca/blog/20-funny-creative-and-outrageous-pet-costumes/

Source: https://www.homesalive.ca/blog/20-funny-creative-and-outrageous-pet-costumes/

Source: http://www.costume-works.com/harry-potter-dog.html

Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jason_coleman/306843686/

Source: https://dogvacay.com/blog/12-dogs-who-are-making-the-best-out-of-their-cones-of-shame/

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Source: www.murdoch.edu.au

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This is the season where flowers bloom and sunny skies bring beautiful sunshine. Dangers also become a factor as toxic plants are in full bloom, posing risks to our beloved pets. Learn about the different kinds of plants that can harm pets and pose health risks to pets. Supervise your dogs and cats when they are outside as a precaution. The following is a list of common spring and summertime plants and the type of dangers they pose.

• Tulip (Tulip spp)- Ingestion can result in intense
vomiting, depression, diarrhea, hypersalivation, drooling and lack of appetite.

• Hyacinth (Hyacinthus oreintalis)- Ingestion can result in intense vomiting, diarrhea, depression and tremors.

• Daffodil (Narcissus spp)- Ingestion can result in severe gastrointestinal illness, convulsions, seizures, low blood pressure and tremors.

• Peace lily (Spathiphyllum spp)- Ingestion can result in ulcers in the mouth, vomiting and diarrhea.

• Easter cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesi)- Ingestion can result in vomiting, diarrhea and depression. Cats can also develop staggering.

• Easter daisy (Townsendia sericea)- This plant is considered non toxic.

• Easter orchid (Cattleya mossiae)- This plant is considered non toxic.

• Easter lily cactus (Echinopsis multiplex)- This plant is considered non toxic.

• Resurrection lily (Kaempferia pulchra)- This plant is considered non toxic.

• Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia splendens prostrata)- Ingestion results in vomiting and diarrhea.

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For any practicing veterinarian, paw licking and chewing is a very common complaint and often, even with holistic approaches can be difficult to treat. Conventionally, this is considered an allergic response.

Most dogs are taken through a battery of tests, put on hypoallergenic and elimination diets, and repeated and long term antibiotics. Many end up on corticosteroids. Unfortunately, many of these dogs continue licking.

For years, I cringed every time I saw a dog that excessively licked his paws. I agree that allergies should be on the differential diagnosis list. However, we all know that many affected dogs improve only marginally when they are treated for allergies.

For the longest time, I tried different diets, homeopathy, herbal supplements and detox protocols, but the results were not as good as I hoped for. I asked myself if I was missing something important and started looking at these patients with fresh eyes.

LOOKING FOR NEUROLOGICAL

Then it dawned on me. Could it be that “paw lickers” paid attention to their feet because of an abnormal neurologic sensation or referred pain originating from the neck? I started to look closer at the patterns I was seeing, and began examining the neck and spine for discomfort, muscle spasm, inflammation and tightness.

Surprisingly, most of the patients that licked their front feet had signs of lower cervical inflammation and discomfort. The dogs that licked their forearms had muscle spasms and inflammation in the inter-scapular region. Those that were licking their hind feet often had signs of injury in the lumbar spine – the origin of nerves supplying the hind feet.

I also noticed that front paw lickers often pulled on the leash or their guardians used a collar attached to a retractable leash. The dogs with hind foot licking were often sprinters and ball retrievers, and frequently had signs of para-spinal muscle injuries and strain of the lumbar spine.

This made sense from an anatomical and neurological point of view. Nerve and energy meridian pathways are affected or “impinged” by tight muscles, collars or leash jerks.

Looking at the position of the collar itself, it is logical that it could cause neck and nerve injury in a dog that is prone to pulling. When it comes to dogs on retractable leashes, the spring of the leash develops a continuous pull that generates a degree of stress in the cervical region. In addition, when a dog gets to the end of the retractable leash, the sudden stop and jerk causes additional force.

Based on this observation, I started addressing the injuries and tightness I was observing. To my surprise, a large majority of these dogs recovered completely or improved significantly, depending on the severity of the injury and the chronicity of the condition.

ADDRESSING ROOT CAUSES THAT TRIGGER PAW LICKING

If you are interested in trying this approach, here is what I suggest. I assume your patient has already been examined, that blood work has been done, and he is being fed a wholesome natural diet and essential vitamins, minerals and Omega oils.

1. Ask the client to use a front clip harness such as Walk In Sync or similar to reduce stress on the cervical spine.

2. Never attach the leash to a collar, especially when a dog pulls frequently.

3. If your patient licks his hind feet, ask the client to prevent him from sprinting, jumping, leaping in the water, or retrieving balls for at least a month. This will reduce the muscle tightness that usually affects nerve and energy pathways to the hind feet.

4. Chiropractic, physiotherapy or osteopathic adjustment or therapy is an essential part of the treatment.

5. Ask your client not to play tug-of-war with the dog, or if they do, to let the rope or leash gently slide through their hands. Instruct them not to lift the dog in the air when tugging.

6. Encourage the client to feed a species appropriate diet and supplement the dog’s food with whole food-based supplements. I use SoulFood (organic multivitamin), GreenMin (plant-based mineral support), and WholeMega salmon oil.

7. If you suspect your patient’s liver has been stressed and needs to detox, consider Livton by Standard Process.

8. I also suggest Zyflamend, an all-natural turmeric-based anti-inflammatory. I have used it for more than four years in dogs, with great results, and have seen no evidence of side effects.

Using this treatment protocol, changes should be evident within one to eight weeks, depending on the severity of the case.

Source: http://ivcjournal.com/excessive-paw-licking-in-dogs-it-may-not-be-allergies/

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What is “Canine Cough”?

Infectious tracheobronchitis, also known as Kennel Cough is a highly contagious, upper-respiratory disease that is spread by any one of three infectious agents (parainfluenza, adenovirus, or Bordetella) or any combination there of. Most often it is passed on through the air, it can also be transmitted on hands or clothing. The incubation period of the disease is roughly three to ten days. The main symptom is a hacking cough, sometimes accompanied by sneezing and nasal discharge, which can last from a few days to several weeks. Although this coughing is very annoying, it does not usually develop into anything more serious; however, just as with a common cold, it can lower the dog’s resistance to other diseases making it susceptible to secondary infections, and so the dog must be observed closely to avoid complications. Canine cough can be an especially serious problem for puppies and geriatric dogs whose immune systems may be weaker.

How is it cured?

Just as in the case of the common cold, tracheobronchitis is not “cured” but must run its course; however, any animal displaying signs of the illness should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Many times antibiotics will be prescribed to prevent secondary infection, and sometimes cough suppressants will be prescribed to reduce excessive coughing, but these medications do not attack the disease itself.

Does it occur only in daycares?

No. Since these viruses can be present anywhere, and can travel for considerable distances through the air, they can affect any dog, even one that never leaves its own back yard. But tracheobronchitis is more likely to occur when the concentration of dogs is greater such as at dog shows, kennels, dog daycares, veterinarian offices as well as pet shops. Dogs can also be exposed while running loose or while being walked near other dogs, or playing in the park.

Can my dog get vaccinated?

Yes and it should be considered for pets that board or visit a daycare frequently. It is important to note that the vaccines that are used to prevent this viral disease are made from only one of the over 100 different strains of the virus and therefore are not effective on all strains. Your veterinarian is in the best position to recommend a program of preventative health care.

Can‘t the daycare prevent my dog from catching it?

While the spread of canine cough can be minimized by proper cleaning and properly ventilating the facility, remember that no amount of supervision, sanitation, or personalized care is guaranteed to be 100% effective against the illness. All that a good pet care facility can do is recommend immunization against tracheobronchitis, refuse to admit an obviously sick dog, follow responsible cleaning and sanitation practices, listen and watch for any signs of sickness, and make sure that any dog requiring veterinary attention receives it as quickly as possible.

Download our brochure here!

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We all love Halloween, but please make sure to keep your dogs safe! Here are some great tips for a happy and safe Howl-O-Ween:

1. No tricks, no treats: That bowl of candy is for trick-or-treaters, not for Scruffy and Fluffy. Chocolate in all forms—especially dark or baking chocolate—can be very dangerous for dogs and cats. Candies containing the artificial sweetener xylitol can also cause problems. If you do suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, please call your veterinarian or the Animal Poison Control Center.

2. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and decorative corn are considered to be relatively nontoxic, but they can produce stomach upset in pets who nibble on them.

3. Wires and cords from electric lights and other decorations should be kept out of reach of your pets. If chewed, your pet might suffer cuts or burns, or receive a possibly life-threatening electrical shock.

4. A carved pumpkin certainly is festive, but do exercise caution if you choose to add a candle. Pets can easily knock a lit pumpkin over and cause a fire.

5. Dress-up can be a big mess-up for some pets. Please don’t put your dog or cat in a costume UNLESS you know he or she loves it (yup, a few pets are real hams!). For pets who prefer their “birthday suits,” however, wearing a costume may cause undue stress.

6. If you do dress up your pet, make sure the costume isn’t annoying or unsafe. It should not constrict the animal’s movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe, bark or meow. Also, be sure to try on costumes before the big night. If your pet seems distressed, allergic or shows abnormal behavior, consider letting him go au naturale or donning a festive bandana.

7. Take a closer look at your pet’s costume and make sure it does not have small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces that he could choke on. Also, ill-fitting outfits can get twisted on external objects or your pet, leading to injury.

8. All but the most social dogs and cats should be kept in a separate room away from the front door during peak trick-or-treating hours. Too many strangers can be scary and stressful for pets.

9. When opening the door for trick-or-treaters, take care that your cat or dog doesn’t dart outside.

10. IDs, please! Always make sure your dog or cat has proper identification. If for any reason your pet escapes and becomes lost, a collar and tags and/or a microchip can be a lifesaver, increaing the chances that he or she will be returned to you.

Source: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/halloween-safety-tips

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Just like picnics and pumpkin-carving, dog shedding is seasonal.

Dogs typically lose their winter coats in the spring, when it is replaced by a shorter, lighter one for summer. In the fall, this cycle is reversed, as the summer coat is shed to make room for heavy protective fur for winter. The change is most obvious in “double-coated” breeds such as collies, shelties and keeshonden. Those breeds carry not only a harsh, protective long overcoat, but also a soft, insulating undercoat — and they lose masses of fur from both in spring and fall.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose little fur at all. Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as the longhairs, but since the hair they shed is easily overlooked, it may seem as if they are shedding less.

All shedders — even the heaviest — can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch on a comb won’t end up on a rug. Work against the grain and close to the skin to catch as much of the ready-to-fall fur as possible.

No matter what the breed, shedding — and heavy seasonal shedding — is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet’s normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems to dull or excessive hair loss or patches of baldness are noticed.

Source: http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/everything-you-need-to-know-about-fall-dog-shedding

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